If there is one thing that terrifies many gardeners, it’s the thought of pruning. Yet, proper pruning is the best way to establish healthy trees.

Although there are different rules of thumb depending on what kind of tree or shrubs you are dealing with, in general, now is the time to prune. This is especially true of fruit trees, which should be pruned in late winter or early spring before the blossoms open. With the warm weather during the past few weeks, it’s time to get going.

The main purpose of pruning for a young fruit tree is to establish several strong scaffold branches that will end up forming the framework of the tree. Begin by carefully choose several branches that form a 45-degree angle from the trunk of the tree. Ideally these should point in different directions in order to form a frame for the future growth and these are the ones that you do not want to cut. These branches should be at least 18-36 inches from the ground and should be about 8-10 inches apart. Most of the other branches are the ones to be removed and the ones that you will cut. Do not cut the central leader. Keep in mind that any subsequent branches will sprout and grow from these main scaffold branches so make cuts just above the buds which are pointing in the best directions to support future growth.

During the first years, your goal is simply to let light into the canopy of the tree so that it will grow well and produce fruit that ripens easily. Exactly what should be pruned depends on your tree. You should remove overly vigorous vertically growing branches and suckers, small twigs that are growing toward the inside of the tree, and dead or diseased branches. You should also remove cross branches that will rub against one another, and thin branches that will not receive enough sunlight to grow strong. You are not only trying to shape the tree, but to choose the strongest and best branches to help keep the tree healthy and growing well.

Prune using sharp pruning shears, loppers or a pruning saw. If you are pruning a tree that is susceptible to fire blight such as pears or apples, be sure to sterilize your tools after each cut using rubbing alcohol or a 10% solution of household bleach to keep the chance of contamination to a minimum.

Cut branches as close as possible to the origin of the branch. Never leave stubs which will eventually die and may spread disease or decay into the live wood, but also be sure not to cut into the branch collar on the trunk. This is the slightly swollen area around the base of the branch which you’ll be pruning off because the tree will heal faster if this is not cut into.

Although you can use a pruning spray or sealer to cover the cut once it’s been made, in our high, dry climate it isn’t necessary and sometimes can actually seal disease into the wound if, for instance, your tools have not been clean. However, if you wish to use a pruning sealer, be sure to use only a thin coat which is sufficient for our area.

Once you have made the initial cuts to shape and establish your tree, in the years to follow, you will continue to prune to help keep that shape and remove unwanted limbs. These would include any that are rubbing other, more established limbs, any dead or diseased wood, or any small or weak branches. If you live in a snowy area, think about weak limbs that might normally break under a heavy snow load, shearing or shredding the branch. Those are the kinds of branches that you’ll want to remove. Occasionally you may need to do some light pruning in the summer or fall, but do so only if necessary. During these warmer times of the year, diseases and pests are more active and you run a greater risk of having them infest your fresh cut.

After you’ve finished your pruning, it’s also a good time to apply dormant oil to kill insect eggs before they hatch. Dormant oil is a refined petroleum product that has been used in orchards for over a century and is one of the least toxic sprays to use. You first spray it onto your trees in late winter or early spring and it works by smothering any larvae, eggs, or insects that may be living on your trees before they have a chance to hatch or get a population established. It needs to be sprayed when the temperatures are above freezing, but before the insects appear, making this the perfect time to do so. Although you may find it necessary to make subsequent sprayings throughout the season, this early application is one of the most important for pest control before they get started.

Making the cut doesn’t always have to be scary and with a little care and a good, sharp tool, your orchard should flourish this spring and summer!

Gail Vanik can be reached at 970-565-8274 or by email at [email protected].