Advertisement

Review: Palate Wrecker assaults the mouth

|
Thursday, Feb. 5, 2015 9:01 PM

San Diego’s Green Flash Brewery brags that it’s Palate Wrecker Imperial IPA is the “hoppiest beer on the planet.”

I give it 4.5 on a 5-star scale.

Re-released last month, the heavy-hitting West Coast IPA weighs in at 9.5 percent alcohol by volume. Upon opening a 22-ounce bomber on Super Bowl Sunday, rushes of intense floral aromas first hit the nose. By kickoff, a clear deep amber hue had smacked the eye, and I cheered after being smashed in the mouth with an unexpected, slight sweetness.

But the Palate Wrecker continued to run across the taste buds before scoring with an obvious – and somewhat evenhanded bitterness – considering its billing.

While the above-average hoppy nature of the Palate Wrecker could be construed as offensive, in its defense as a craft beer aficionado, I give the beer 5 stars for both appearance and smell along with 4 stars for taste and mouth feel.

Palate Wrecker is also a crowd favorite, according to customer reviews at BeerAdvocate.com. With 4.25 stars, one recent post stated, “This really does live up to the name. My taste buds have been assaulted and are currently in the fetal position. This is so good!”

Be warned. IPAs are not for first-time beer drinkers, and the Palate Wrecker can wreak havoc. Even with a perfect 5-star Beer Advocate rating for look, smell, taste and feel, another recent reviewer cautioned that his throat was “dry the next day” after drinking the Palate Wrecker.

Inside the brewery

Due to a 2008 worldwide hop shortage, the Palate Wrecker was first handcrafted using an innovative double brewing process. For the latest seasonal batch, Green Flash brew master Chuck Silva again employ a single infusion mash with water before adding 6 pounds of Columbus, Centennial and Simcoe hops per barrel in a subsequent boil.

Contributed by alpha acids found in hops, the zero to 120 IBU (International Bittering Units) scale measures the actual bitterness of a beer. The Palate Wrecker puts up 100-plus IBUs on the board.

Instead of water, the brewing process concludes with a second, duplicate mash with the wort (sweet extract from the initial mash) and another 65 IBU hop boil.

“Palate Wrecker is the most complicated West Coast-inspired Imperial IPA we have ever brewed,” said Green Flash co-founder and CEO Mike Hinkley.

A closer look

London brewers are credited with developing the IPA, or India Pale Ale, style of beer in the late 1700s. At the time, adding hops to the traditional pale were thought by British brewers to help preserve the beer during its sea voyage to India.

Today, the IPA and its higher-than-normal hop schedule is buzzing the American craft beer industry, and unbalanced recipes with surplus hops that often overpower malted grains and barley is not only intentional, but also demanded.

In full disclosure

The Cortez Journal partnered with Green Flash Brewery to receive 12- and 24-oz. samples of the Palate Wrecker. The company website indicates the beer is available at Wagon Wheel Liquor in Durango.

The Cortez Journal reminds our readers to drink responsible.

tbaker@cortezjournal.com

Beer Tasting 101

When analyzing a beer, aficionados warn not to “slam it.” And although subjective, there are four basic steps to consider when critiquing a beer.
First, look at the beer in a glass. Note the color and amount of foam.
Second, swirl the beer, gently; releasing the beer’s aromas.
Next, stop and smell the beer. Take two sniffs through your nose, then with your mouth open and again with your nose pinched.
Finally, take a sip, but resist swallowing. Let the beer swill in your mouth. Breathe out during the process.
Try to detect any sweetness; nutty, salty, fruity or caramel flavors; acids as well as bitterness.
It’s also suggested to repeat the process after the beer warms, slightly. Cold beer can mask some flavors.
Be mindful: Beer styles and brewer recipes differ.
For more, visit BeerAdvocate.com.
Tobie Baker

Advertisement